Crew Blog

Memories of paradise

18 March 2008

You couldn’t possibly cross the Pacific without stopping at Midway Wildlife Refuge, a peaceful oasis for seabirds, migrating shorebirds and marine life. This atoll provides a protected habitat for breeding rare species, and a nesting ground to 2 Million birds annually. From November to July Midway is alive with Albatross, boasting the largest colonies of Laysan (440,000 breeding pairs) and Black Footed albatross in the world. The waters are thriving with life; Hawaiian spinner dolphins, endangered green sea turtles and monk seals.

This refuelling stop wasn’t just about Diesel, and we feel like some of the luckiest seafarers alive. The welcome was far more than one could ever anticipate, one of smiling faces, generosity and support. Our day was consumed by guided talks, exploration, and fascination; with an evening of song & dance, games and laughter.
Leaving was difficult, new friends left behind, but we are here to race the globe and onwards we must push.
Martin Silk
(Skipper)

Undoubtedly the silver lining in the dark cloud of our broken mast, and our subsequent loss of race points, was the visit to Midway Island. I feel immensely privileged to have had the chance to visit. I had read of the Battle of Midway, but had no idea of its significance; the many memorials on the island changed that. As you will know from my earlier Blogs, I love Albatross, so to walk amongst them, touch and be touched by them, was really special. One even tried to eat my “croc”, while I was wearing it, and did not flinch when I touched its back. To see the burrows of the shearwaters in the ground among the albatross nests reminded me that nature adapts beautifully, and wastes little.

Our hosts were a special group, either working for the Fish & Wildlife Service (who manage the reserve) or maintaining the infrastructure; all were outstandingly friendly & welcoming, and it would be a privilege to host any of them, and an even greater one to be given a chance to visit again. Midway will remain in my memory as a major highlight of my Clipper adventure.
Bruce Macky
(RTW crew member)

Having initially been told that Midway Island was a US Military Base and a bird sanctuary, we joked of GI Jane & Goma Pyle being there to meet us. Fortunately there was no misunderstanding of the big orange circle on our sails – we’d come in peace. We were truly blessed with wonderful karma, initially from our welcome party of Hawaiian spinner dolphins, closely followed by having a “follow me” boat, and finally up at the wharf, meeting and greeting with the islands’ residents. They were equally curious about us, probably expecting the shipwrecked crew from Gilligan’s Island!

A familiarization briefing indicated how genuinely the Wildlife Sanctuary status is upheld, with animals taking absolute priority. What then followed was a limo ride to Hotel Charlie, passing many thousands of birds, with chicks in their nests, and then having to step over more birds even to get in the front door. Our day continued to get better with a guided tour, bikes to ride and most importantly free rein of the island. With perfect hosts we enjoyed a night of partying as special guests in the “All Hands Club”. The ceiling panels tell stories of previous guests or special celebrations, so when you go look up from the bar; now we’re there too!
Lyn Condratoff
(RTW crew member)

1. Ericka, Hereford 18 March 2008

FANTASTIC insight of the wild life on Midway. I shall certainly be looking up the ‘Blue footed Booby’ on the net. The ‘White bellied Booby’ you will see in the West Indies, Jamaica to be exact! Good sailing! Ericka Norris Leg 1 and Leg 2 on DURBAN !

2. Mo, Morpeth, Northumberland 18 March 2008

What a fabulous photo of the albatross. Glad you had the opportunity for such a unique visit out of the disappointment of the dismasting. You’ve all seen something that the other Clipper crews haven’t. Must get the DVD of the Battle of Midway from the local Blockbusters. Hope your journey to Hawaii is now trouble free. Mo

3. Barbara & Robert Watson, Beckenham, Kent 18 March 2008

It is just wonderful that you all had such a good experience on Midway Island which has helped to make up for the fact that you had to retire from the race to Hawaii. Have a good journey to Hawaii, a good rest and very best wishes for the next leg to Santa Cruz. Barbara & Robert Watson

4. andi, Stirling 18 March 2008

GO GO GO!!! BLOW FAVOURABLE WINDS AND GET THE BBB TO HAWAII BY FRIDAY...oooh if wishing and hoping could be bottled and turned into speed and good fortune, you’d be there already!

Glad you all had a fabulous experience on Midway, especially getting so close to such wildlife - wow! Eileen, hope to see you in action soon on the next vid - or are you still shy?! Take care all of you and BIG HUG to my tenacious mum xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

5. Mum & Dad Silk, Tenterden,Kent,UK 18 March 2008

Hi all onboard the BBB, looks like you had a good time on Midway lots of wildlife & friendly locals can’t get any better.
Looks like Clipper have everything ready for you in Hawaii, and lets hope all repairs are completed for the next race start.
Clive’s legs look great in the fishnet tights I must try some myself some time! well good sailing & get to Hawaii as soon as poss.
Bye to all from Dad Silk (mums gone line dancing)
PS they have found HMAS Sydney

6. Jadranka Lota, Maidenhead, UK 18 March 2008

I loved the chicks on the photo. It mast have been a magnificent to see the bird colonies and being able to be near them!!! How fun…
x x x x

7. Sarah, Edinburgh 18 March 2008

Greetings to WA from Scotland. I just wanted to say I am so glad to read of your amazing experience. Well described and wonderful to see your photograph. It just goes to show that the silver lining is sometimes the thing you were meant to discover and I am glad that has been the case for you. The fleet will be jealous! Wishing you safe journey to next port.Sarah (of Uniquely Singapore allegiance generally dare I mention it!!)

8. Nigel Smith, Perth, W.A. 19 March 2008

I might be a tad envious. Take me next time! Keep the daily e-mailed pararaphs coming, they’re great. Martin’s skill with the keyboard is getting up there with his skill as a skipper. Keep on making the most out of it. Nigel.

9. wilfred, australia 19 March 2008

The crew should be proud to have stopped at Midway , the sight of a very savage battle , Between two captains, who tried to out do eachother , america and japan,
They should be proud to have visited the sight , one day i may get to see it myself , I have done the Dunkirk beach, and germany , even got into hitlers hide out in the mountains , so good luck chaps, ONWARD AND UPWARD

10. Mum and Dad Silk, Tenterden Kent 19 March 2008

So the steak and chips were that good on Midway that you’ve gone back for second helpings have you? Well WA you’re not having much luck on this leg are you! everything seems to be against you..but I know you will all support each other and keep positive.
You will get to Hawaii eventually...not many people can say they’ve beento Midway once
let alone twice! We hope you get the BBB repaired quickly and get swiftly on your way once more,with no more mishaps! Safe sailing to Hawaii (via Midway)
Take care Skipper..
Much love..
Mum and Dad xx

P.S.We love the video clips and the pictures(and the blogs of course)
We are looking forward to seeing you racing again.

11. Sister Sue, Aberdeenshire 19 March 2008

And there was all us “land-lubbers” thinking that you lot aboard the BBB loves her to bits
Come on all of you! Treat her with a bit more respect!!
Enjoy your re-visit to Midway, maybe this time you can get up really close and personal with the albatrosses )
Take care and hope Jack’s sore paw is getting better xxxxxxxx

12. andi, Stirling 19 March 2008

I DON’T BELIEVE IT!!! Just read about your engine failure :( Seriously hoping the race can be delayed - what’re the chances? Ah guys, enjoy Midway when you get there and look after each other, its a different adventure but you can cope with anything! Much love to you all and especially my mum xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

13. Vic Silk, Woolloomooloo 20 March 2008

Now we know you were all very taken with Midway, and harbouring secret plans to get back there, but isn’t this a little bit extreme Thinking of you all and wishing you safe and happy passage into your refuge. Get fixing and see you in Hawaii real soon! Love, Vic.

14. Wendy Harte, Dubai 20 March 2008

Hi
have just been reading that you are heading back to Midway but all are safe on WA. Sounds like the new equipment is on order just hope you make it safely to be able to install it in Hawaii and can join in the racing you all love. Wishing you a quick turn around on Midway and nice kind winds to get you to Hawaii intime for the next leg
Hugs to Auntie Eileen
Wendy

15. Alice Bennett, West London 20 March 2008

WHAT IS GOING ON??? The hardest luck! Are you going back for the biggest easter egg hunt ever? You know that you have to leave those nesting eggs alone and definitely no painting them pretty easter pastel colours! Lou your Birthday on Monday will be one to remember, sorry the card is in the post, it has a dozen addresses on the front, I’m not sure that the postie will find you, Have given priority to the spare parts - the card can follow!
Lots of love to you Lou, see you soon?
Big sis Al xxxx

16. Jadranka Lota, Maidenhead, UK 20 March 2008

Sorry to hear about the gear box :-(. Its official… This leg sucks from racing perspective but its brilliant for holidaying!! Hey you can play ‘Lost’ on the island!!!!! I think that our theme song should be ‘I get knocked down, but I get up again, you never gonna keep me down...’. Remember that 1?
Love to you all and I hope you find being on the island fun
Love to you all ) x x x

17. Kathy, MN, USA 21 March 2008

Hey, good luck to you all. I’m enjoying your blog. I’m a regular reader of Pete At Midway and he turned his blog readers on to your site.
Godspeed.

18. val and Alan BENNETT, suffolk UK 21 March 2008

Well! If this was a soap i’d say you’d pushed the story line too far, ‘Neihbours ‘ can’t compare with this. We wish you a safe return to Midway- a wonderful refuge for the birds and you, also a speedy voyage to Santa Cruz (hope to see you there) via Hawaii.
Much Love to Lou and a VERY HAPPY BIRTHDAY on the 24th.
Best Wishes from V&A;

19. Peter Lawrence, Melbourne Australia 22 March 2008

Hi friends on WA2011, on your way back for more RnR at Midway. We’ve been out of the loop for a week or so but now back on deck. Can’t understand why you even need an engine let alone a gear box if your jury rig is going so well! What rotten luck, but a speedy fix in Midway and a safe and quick run to Hawaii. I’m now not coming there, but sending Jude and Sharon instead. Will see you in Jamaica with Pam. Keep up the smiles and sense of adventure. Peter

20. andi, Stirling 23 March 2008

Hi BBB crew - so glad you’re on your way again! If serendipity can get the engine parts to you with such speed and co-operation, then i’m hoping it can hang around a bit and make sure you make Hawaii in time to meet your new mast! Just hope the engine fumes aren’t too much, yuk yuk.

My mum Eileen is looking forward to seeing you arrive in Hawaii and wil be doing all she can to assist in advance of your arrival. Me? I’ll be cheering you on every day and wishing with every fibre of my body that you set off on the start of the next leg surrounded by the rest of the clipper fleet GO GO GO BBB!!! love and safe journey to you all andi xxxxxxxxxxxxx

21. Darlene Holst, Midway Atoll NWR 24 March 2008

It was a pleasure meeting each one of the westernaustralia2001 crew. The island is a bit quiet tonight without everyone here. I hope everyone takes back great Midway memories. We will be following your progress as you journey on. Hopefully one day you will get to come back to see us again. Just remember there is a little dot on the map in the Pacific with people waiting if you ever need anything. Cheers & safe travels.

Darlene

22. Jo and Co, Norfolk UK 24 March 2008

Billy We have followed your progress witha mixture of awe and admiration. Have been through every sqall and scald! Look after yourselves love Jo and Co

23. John Franklin, Bedfordshire, UK 24 March 2008

Happy Birthday Lou! Hope you’re getting some kind of celebration onboard!
Big hugs from me, and my Parents send their best wishes too. xx

24. Jadranka Lota, Maidenhead, UK 25 March 2008

I saw Martin and Judy on Sky Sports!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 It was 10min news on Clipper as part of Seamaster Sailing series!! They talked about arriving in Quingdao and leaving it. But yey we are on Sky . Also I know you left Midway few days ago and it would be nice to hear how life on board is, no matter how boring! Thinking of you
J x x x x

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